What Grit Should You Use for Each Skin Type? Nail Techs, Here’s the Science
When it comes to perfecting your prep, one size definitely doesn’t fit all. Each client’s skin behaves differently - and if you're using the wrong EFile bit grit, you could be doing more harm than good.
Whether you're treating dry cuticles, oily skin or stubborn sidewalls, your grit choice makes all the difference. So let’s break down how to choose the right one every single time.
Why Does Grit Matter in Cuticle Prep?
Choosing the correct grit is about more than preference - it’s about precision, safety and results.
According to a 2022 survey of 500 nail professionals by Nail Pro Magazine, 84% of lifting issues are traced back to improper prep, including:
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Overworking the skin
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Using the wrong EFile bit
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Using incorrect speed or technique
🧠 Fact:
Higher grit = smoother (gentler) surface
Lower grit = coarser (more abrasive) surface
Working with the wrong texture can lead to:
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Skin irritation or heat spikes
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Over-exfoliation and damage
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Missed debris or cuticle tissue, causing lifting
1. Sensitive or Oily Skin
Use: Extra Fine Grit
Recommended routine: Extra Fine Diamond Flame → Nip → Extra Fine Big Diamond Barrel
🔍 How to Identify:
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Skin is soft or shiny
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Slightly oily around cuticle area
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Often hydrated from skincare or oil
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May flush red easily
Why Extra Fine?
Sensitive or oily skin is thinner and more prone to over-exfoliation. Extra Fine grit allows you to lift and push back non-living tissue gently and safely, without damaging the live tissue beneath.
Clinical Insight: Thinner epidermis around the cuticle (as seen in sensitive skin) requires softer abrasives to prevent micro-tears.
Our Top Tip:
Keep RPM between 12–15 and avoid pressure - let the bit do the work. Always finish with a hydrating cuticle oil to balance any excess dryness.
2. 💅Normal Skin
Use: Fine Grit
Recommended routine: Fine Diamond Flame → Nip → Fine Diamond Big Ball
🔍 How to Identify:
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Skin feels even and balanced
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Not prone to excess dryness or oil
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Minimal hangnails or build-up
Why Fine?
Fine grit is ideal for maintenance appointments. It removes non-living tissue effectively without disrupting the live skin underneath, maintaining skin health and structure.
Industry Insight: Most nail techs see clients every 2–3 weeks, which means fine grit is perfect for upkeep without overdoing it.
Our Top Tip:
Fine grit is the sweet spot for regulars. If the client is coming in every 2–3 weeks, you’ll rarely need to reach for anything stronger.
3. 🌵 Dry or Hard Skin
Use: Medium Grit
Recommended routine: Medium Diamond Flame → Nip → Medium Big Diamond Barrel
🔍 How to Identify:
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Skin is flaky, cracked or thickened
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Overgrown cuticles or sidewall build-up
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Common in clients who wait 4+ weeks between appointments
Why Medium?
Medium grit is slightly more abrasive, which helps tackle tough, dry, or overgrown areas efficiently—without having to apply excess pressure (which increases the risk of heat build-up or discomfort).
Research shows that using the right grit improves efficiency by up to 27%, and reduces client discomfort by 40% compared to overworking with the wrong bit.
Our Top Tip:
Use your flame shape for tight sidewalls, and the barrel to finish the full plate and perimeter. Follow with thorough dust removal and hydration.
🛠️ Bit Grit Comparison Table
| Skin Type | Grit | Bits to Use | Ideal Client |
|---|---|---|---|
| Sensitive/Oily | Extra Fine | XF Flame → Nip → XF Barrel | Young or reactive |
| Normal | Fine | F Flame → Nip → F Big Ball | Regular clients |
| Dry/Hard | Medium | M Flame → Nip → M Barrel | 4+ week gaps |
Stock Your Station with Confidence
All MUSE Diamond Bits are:
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Designed for professional use
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Available in varying grits
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Created for precision cuticle prep with minimal heat transfer
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Compatible with all EFiles (3/32” shank), although we recommend ours 👀
✨ Explore the Diamond Collection and build a prep kit tailored to every skin type.
FAQs
Q: Can I just use one grit for all clients?
Technically yes - but it increases your risk of overworking or under-prepping. Tailoring grit gives better results and safer services.
Q: How often should I replace my diamond bits?
Diamond bits last approx. 3–6 months depending on usage and cleaning. Dull bits = uneven work and longer service times.
Q: Can I use Medium grit on sensitive skin if I go gently?
It's not recommended. Even with light pressure, the abrasiveness may still irritate thinner skin types.
Prep Like a Pro
Understanding your client’s skin type and choosing the right grit for their prep isn’t just a small tweak - it’s a game-changer. The result?
✅ Healthier nails
✅ Stronger adhesion
✅ Happier clients
